Why New York City is the hub for Latin fashion
A look at NYFW designers Patricio Campillo and Willy Chavarria.
It’s not surprising how much the Latin fashion community has been brewing in New York City for several years now.
As Patricio Campillo, the only Mexican to be both nominated for and a semifinalist in the LVMH Prize, recently told WWD after his show in NYC:
New York is the only capital where there's a potential to create a Latino identity, that's why New York is relevant right now there's a community and it just feels like you can build something here.
From my perspective, a significant pillar of the Latin fashion community began to grow when Tumbao, founded in 2021 by Ecuadorian Valentina Pozo, established a more permanent presence in the city.
Just a few days ago, The Cut featured Valentina and dubbed Tumbao the “concept store that carries one of the most extensive curations of Latin American fashion in the world.”
I first learned about Tumbao in 2022, when they were still a pop-up, through an event they held in Mexico City in collaboration with Mexican designer Sabrina Ol, where they also featured Ecuadorian designer Martin Across.
Of course, I’ve been following Valentina’s journey from afar ever since. During the Chevere Means Cool podcast, Valentina explained:
“I think the future of retail is super experience heavy, it’s super customer service heavy, my curation it is kinda niche, it is really special, and its not for everyone, so in general the people that I’m catering the store to isn’t this huge audience, its like people who really appreciate this little ‘tesoritos’ (treasures) and appreciate the story of everything, and it just makes sense that we put so much emphasis on in person things.”
Having initially helped small brands create pop-ups of their own in NYC, Valentina eventually turned this into a series of temporary retail experiences that connected with the Latin community through culture and fashion. Tumbao has now settled into a concept store at 20 Orchard St.
To add to this, the presence of key figures such as Tanya Melendez, the Mexican Curator at the FIT Museum in New York, along with her fellow curator Melissa Marra-Alvarez, led to the exhibition ¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today, which explores the identity and relevance of Latin fashion:
The English-language media has often viewed Latin American fashion from an outsider’s perspective—as an exoticized other—presenting the region as a homogenous entity. However, there is no singular Latin American style but rather a diversity of talent that continues to shape contemporary fashion.
Among other factors, I should also mention Mexican artist and designer Barbara Sánchez-Kane, who had a solo exhibition in New York in 2023 and previously showcased during VFILES back in 2016, marking a significant moment in Mexican fashion.
Before diving into the most recent edition of New York Fashion Week, I’d like to point out some other brands and designers currently based in NYC:
Ana Lucia Bermudez
From Colombia, a designer who is also an Amazon Pink River Dolphin Ambassador (hence the print in her garments).
Mariana by Alba
Produces corsets in Mexico and sells them in a couple of locations in New York.
NMZ
This brand was founded by Natalia Mazzei, a Venezuelan designer who has been in NYC for almost 10 years and produces her pieces between Colombia and Venezuela.
Valeria Anastasia
A swimwear and travel wear brand is produced in Monterrey, Mexico, without holding stock, in a studio powered by solar electricity. The designer, however, is based in New York City.
Zulia & Huipa
Accessories are created by Renata Solís, who is based in New York but produces them artisanally in Mexico.
I might also mention brands like Volver Workshop, De Maria, and others, which, if I haven’t shared yet, I will continue to feature in this newsletter.
What was seen during New York Fashion Week:
Campillo
As I mentioned before, Patricio Campillo, the only Mexican nominated and also a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize, made his debut at NYFW with a collection inspired by Mexican volcanoes, while also drawing references from charrería culture, which is part of his heritage. According to attendees, the runway show concluded with a song from the Mexican group Bronco.
Trust me, Campillo is a name you’ll want to remember.
This show was produced by Momoroom and with styling by Chino Castilla.
Willy Chavarria
You’ve likely heard of Willy Chavarria, who recently dubbed himself the "Chicano Ralph Lauren." His SS25 collection, América, was showcased to the music of “Querida” by Juan Gabriel, performed by Yahritza Y Su Esencia. At the same time, Chavarria presented his collaborations with Tequila Don Julio and Adidas.
I also read Viv Chen’s note on this topic, and it made me want to look a little more into it.
I’ve read at least a dozen reviews of Chavarria’s show, and I have to say I have mixed feelings. Some dive deeper into cultural analysis, but I was quite surprised to read one that mentioned some European aesthetic references on the runway, which made my eye twitch a bit.
The best so far was from Hypebeast by Dylan Kelly, who said Chavarria focused on Mexican immigrants who have been part of the American workforce. The designer himself said in the review:
I got a lot of inspiration from the United Farm Workers Movement, the Civil Rights Movement, the women’s liberation movements of the past that have truly brought people together to create change.
But also the guy going to work at AT&T with his name on his shirt and his keyring hanging from his pocket because he’s about to open the store.
The review also stated that the “Willy Chavarria Fashion Services” shirts seen on the runway were actually a tribute to the “working-class uniform” that his parents wore as “immigrant farmers in California’s San Joaquin Valley.”
To me, the most evident aspect was the zoot suit tailoring (I will provide more information about this below) present in the trousers, and one of the tops called the Pachuco work shirt (a polo-style shirt) also seemed to be featured this time around.
And of course, my favorite from the Adidas collaboration:
As a final note, Mexican brand Banzo, which I recently visited at their showroom in Mexico City, held an event during NYFW and is also part of this community of Latin designers who may not be officially on the runways but are showcasing their brands simultaneously.
Additionally, the Arts Hearts Fashion show presented Mexican talents like SVLIM, Benito Santos, Jesús de la Garza, and Carlos Pineda (who dressed Camila Cabello for the Champions League in 2022).
Links and more relevant information if you wish to dive deeper:
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The Cut’s Interview with Valentina Pozo from Tumbao. Read here.
The best review I read of the Willy Chavarria’s show in Hypebeast. Read here.
Vogue podcast where Bolivian Fashion Writer at Vogue Runway, José Criales, interviews Willy Chavarria before his show:
See the full gallery of the Willy Chavarria’s show at WWD. Link here.
About Zoot Suits Riots, found this piece on Substack. Link here.
Sanchez-Kane presents solo show in NYC. Link here.
Read the book Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today - ¡Moda Hoy! Link here.
Chevere Means Cool podcast features Valentina Pozo from Tumbao:
Thank you for reading!
I really really loved this newsletter! It was amazing and it helped me to understand more about the Latin movement in nyc